Phil
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Posts: 1,319
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Post by Phil on Nov 6, 2006 19:20:03 GMT
BATTERY TESTING
Firstly if the stabilized open circuit voltage is below 12.5v, the battery needs charging or is knackered. After charging allow the battery to stand for at least 1 - 2 hours before retesting.
LOADED TESTING: There are two types of loaded tests for motorcycle batteries. You’ll need a voltmeter or a multimeter.
LOW-LOAD TEST: Basically, this means turning on the bike’s lights and taking a voltage reading at the battery. Remember, hook positive (+) to positive (+), negative (-) to negative (-). The battery should have at least 11.5v DC with the lights on.
HIGH-RATE DISCHARGE TEST: This is the best test of battery condition under a starting load, you should have more than 10.5 volts while the starting motor is cranking the engine. If your readings are lower than suggested then the battery is Knackered.
Regulator/Rectifier (R/R) TESTING: With the engine running you should have 12.5 to 13 volts with the engine at tick-over. And once revved to 5,000RPM you should have something between 13.5v and 14.5v definitely not more than 16v.
One thing that can cause problems is that a failing R/R when cool can, and often will, give out a decent output voltage so you think it's OK. However, when the R/R gets hot the diodes break down and the output voltage will drop. So it is worth repeating this test immediately after you've been for a ride
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