Post by Phil on Nov 6, 2006 19:42:58 GMT
Copied from the Suzuki GSX forum but should work for other makes of bike 
Firstly, the best starting point for a suspension set up is the manufacturers original settings. This allows you to go back to a baseline set up, no matter how much fiddling around you do.
Because everyone is slightly different and of differing weights, then a bike will work best when set up to the individual. The following rough guide for a solo rider has worked on bikes I've owned to give me a good suspension set up for road use.
Initially we'll adjust the preload on the suspension.
The front preload:-
1. Put a cable tie round the front fork stanchion (the shiny bit).
2. Get help from a mate and lift the front of the bike, so there is no weight on the front forks, and slide the cable tie down the fork until it rests on the fork seal. If you've got USD forks, then slide the cable tie upwards to the fork seal.
3. Put the bike back on the ground.
4. Now wearing all your riding gear, get on the bike gently and allow your full weight to settle on the bike in roughly a riding position. Try not to bounce the bike as you do it. You should now be sitting there with your tip toes lightly on the ground stabilising the bike.
5. When everything is stable, get your mate to slide the cable tie till it again touches the fork seal.
6. Carefully get off the bike.
7. The front of the bike needs lifting again until the weight is off the forks. Now measure the distance between the cable tie and the fork seal. Ideally the gap should be in the region of 30 to 40mm (or about 1/3 of the suspension travel). If the gap is too large then increase the preload and repeat steps 2 to 7, if the gap is too small then reduce the preload and repeat steps 2 to 7.
The rear preload:-
1. With the help of that same good mate, you'll owe him a beer after all this lifting, lift the back of the bike so the weight is off the rear suspension.
2. Measure from the centre of the rear axle to a fixed part of the bike above it. Remember this measurement as R1.
3. Put the bike back down.
4. Now wearing all your riding gear, get on the bike and allow your full weight to settle on the bike in roughly a riding position. You should now be sitting there with your tip toes lightly on the ground stabilising the bike.
5. Measure from the centre of the axle to the same point on the bike as before. Remember this measurement as R2.
6. Now the maths. R1 minus R2 should be in the region of 30 to 40mm (or about 1/3 of the suspension travel). If it's greater, then the rear preload needs increasing and repeat steps 4 to 6. If it's less then the rear preload needs reducing and repeat steps 4 to 6. The R1 figure isn't going to change so there's no need to do 1 and 2 again.
Now we'll go onto the black art of the damping adjustment.
If the bike feels unstable, loose and rather bouncy, then the rebound damping needs increasing. Just try a little at a time until you find the setting best for you. If the bike feels hard and bumpy, then reduce the rebound damping. Again, just adjust a little at a time. Make a note somewhere how much you've adjusted things.
If the bike has a tendency to bottom out under braking, then increase the front compression damping. If it feels too rigid or tends to hop under braking, then reduce the front compression damping. If the back of the bike bottoms out in depressions or feels unstable in fast corners, then increase the rear compression damping. If the back end feels rigid and harsh, then reduce the rear compression damping. Remember to make a note of all the adjustments you've made.
If it all goes wrong, return the bike to standard settings and start again.
For those GSXFs that don't have front preload adjustment, you can remove the fork caps and shim the spring with big washers to increase the preload. Just make sure you put the same amount in each fork.
If you feel the damping in the forks is lacking, and you have no damping adjusters, then changing the fork oil for a different weight oil works a treat. I found 15W fork oil was about right for my old '88 GSX600F.
One good suspension upgrade for the Teapot is to replace the silly short springs and long spacer in the front forks with a decent full length spring.
Your riding style will determine the type of spring you should have. For touring I'd recommend progressive rate springs, gives a more comfortable ride; for the more spirited rider I'd recommend linear rate springs, which give better feedback.
Firstly, the best starting point for a suspension set up is the manufacturers original settings. This allows you to go back to a baseline set up, no matter how much fiddling around you do.
Because everyone is slightly different and of differing weights, then a bike will work best when set up to the individual. The following rough guide for a solo rider has worked on bikes I've owned to give me a good suspension set up for road use.
Initially we'll adjust the preload on the suspension.
The front preload:-
1. Put a cable tie round the front fork stanchion (the shiny bit).
2. Get help from a mate and lift the front of the bike, so there is no weight on the front forks, and slide the cable tie down the fork until it rests on the fork seal. If you've got USD forks, then slide the cable tie upwards to the fork seal.
3. Put the bike back on the ground.
4. Now wearing all your riding gear, get on the bike gently and allow your full weight to settle on the bike in roughly a riding position. Try not to bounce the bike as you do it. You should now be sitting there with your tip toes lightly on the ground stabilising the bike.
5. When everything is stable, get your mate to slide the cable tie till it again touches the fork seal.
6. Carefully get off the bike.
7. The front of the bike needs lifting again until the weight is off the forks. Now measure the distance between the cable tie and the fork seal. Ideally the gap should be in the region of 30 to 40mm (or about 1/3 of the suspension travel). If the gap is too large then increase the preload and repeat steps 2 to 7, if the gap is too small then reduce the preload and repeat steps 2 to 7.
The rear preload:-
1. With the help of that same good mate, you'll owe him a beer after all this lifting, lift the back of the bike so the weight is off the rear suspension.
2. Measure from the centre of the rear axle to a fixed part of the bike above it. Remember this measurement as R1.
3. Put the bike back down.
4. Now wearing all your riding gear, get on the bike and allow your full weight to settle on the bike in roughly a riding position. You should now be sitting there with your tip toes lightly on the ground stabilising the bike.
5. Measure from the centre of the axle to the same point on the bike as before. Remember this measurement as R2.
6. Now the maths. R1 minus R2 should be in the region of 30 to 40mm (or about 1/3 of the suspension travel). If it's greater, then the rear preload needs increasing and repeat steps 4 to 6. If it's less then the rear preload needs reducing and repeat steps 4 to 6. The R1 figure isn't going to change so there's no need to do 1 and 2 again.
Now we'll go onto the black art of the damping adjustment.
If the bike feels unstable, loose and rather bouncy, then the rebound damping needs increasing. Just try a little at a time until you find the setting best for you. If the bike feels hard and bumpy, then reduce the rebound damping. Again, just adjust a little at a time. Make a note somewhere how much you've adjusted things.
If the bike has a tendency to bottom out under braking, then increase the front compression damping. If it feels too rigid or tends to hop under braking, then reduce the front compression damping. If the back of the bike bottoms out in depressions or feels unstable in fast corners, then increase the rear compression damping. If the back end feels rigid and harsh, then reduce the rear compression damping. Remember to make a note of all the adjustments you've made.
If it all goes wrong, return the bike to standard settings and start again.
For those GSXFs that don't have front preload adjustment, you can remove the fork caps and shim the spring with big washers to increase the preload. Just make sure you put the same amount in each fork.
If you feel the damping in the forks is lacking, and you have no damping adjusters, then changing the fork oil for a different weight oil works a treat. I found 15W fork oil was about right for my old '88 GSX600F.
One good suspension upgrade for the Teapot is to replace the silly short springs and long spacer in the front forks with a decent full length spring.
Your riding style will determine the type of spring you should have. For touring I'd recommend progressive rate springs, gives a more comfortable ride; for the more spirited rider I'd recommend linear rate springs, which give better feedback.
